The Ghost
of the Saltair
The Ghost
of the Saltair
My story begins at the end of the
19th century. The year is 1893 to be precise. In that year, a famous
architect named Richard K.A. Kletting saw one of his most celebrated creations
coming to life. The place was a well known bath resort built by the salty waters
of the Great Salt Lake, Utah .
The name of this place was “The Great Saltair”.
This
huge construction, designed in a moorish style, was one of the main tourists
attractions in Utah ,
so famous to be nicknamed “The Coney Island of the West”. People had at
disposition a train service to travel from Salt Lake City to Magna, where the Saltair
was located. It was approximately 18 miles from Temple Square and it had one of the
biggest ballrooms in the whole world, if not the biggest of all. The structure
was completely made out of wood. Though stylish and peculiar, this proved to be
a clear disadvantage because regular maintenance was required in order to keep
the construction protected from the salty water of the lake. Unfortunately,
fire was a serious threat as well, so in 1925, the resort and other adjacent buildings
were destroyed by fire. Not long after the accident, a new pavilion was built,
improved and enlarged, with the addition of a roller-coaster and some amusement
park carousels. The fate of the Saltair II was not luckier than that of the
first one, due to factors such as the Great Depression, the decline in number
of clients, another fire that caused $ 30.000 of damage, waters receding and
World War II, the latter which probably gave the definitive stroke to the hopes
of glory of the resort, the resort completely went out of business in 1958.
Abandoned throughout the 60’s, the Great Saltair was finally destroyed in an
arson in 1970 which left nothing but piles of burned wood and rusted metal
structural elements.
But the story of the Saltair was far from
over. In 1981, investors decided to convert a salvage air force hangar into
what has become the New Saltair or Saltair III. Even with its ups and downs,
including being flooded, abandoned and restored again, the New Saltair is still
standing. This is the introduction to my experience with this building called
The Great Saltair. Some of you readers might wonder why my story goes back such
a long way, but it’s necessary that an explanation of what the Saltair used to
be is given to you before I proceed with my personal events.
At this point, I can introduce myself. I am
Italian, you can call me Gabe. You will realize of me being a foreigner because
of the use of the language, some of these things you’ll read might not sound
like standard English.
Last Summer I had the amazing chance to visit
Utah after a first visit the year before, this time for a longer permanence and
with a personal car to drive around, a lovely 1995 Chevrolet Lumina. I had
dedicated most of my driving around to the main routes in the Salt Lake Area, Redwood Road and
the Interstate 15, so one Night I decided time had come to take a look at the
famous Great Salt Lake . My original plan was
to leave not too late in the evening so that, with a shed of light left, I
would have been able to see the shores of the lake. My erroneous estimations
led me to get behind the steering wheel when it was already too dark to see the
lake even in its proximity, but this didn’t discourage me from driving toward
the appointed location. I drove down Redwood
Road to the UT SR 201, which quickly took me to
the West area of the Salt
Lake County .
I was using a sat nav (or GPS) and I could follow the route without the risk of
getting lost, but at one point I decided not to use it anymore and try to
follow directions just with my instinct. Truth is I was simply looking for the
lake, so how in the world I could have missed it? I mean, you simply drive
West, you will end up crashing against it. This was not my case though, in fact
I drove on the I-80 towards Toeele only to find out that I was going in the
wrong direction and the lake wasn’t even near. I took a look at the sat nav and
realized how fool I had been, so I turned the car 180° and went back towards
SLC.
-Freak! I messed up!
While I was trying to define my position using
road signs, one of them clearly stated that I was not far from Toeele, which
meant that driving back would have taken a while. I didn’t despair though, I
made my turn and tried to follow the map in order to find the lake, which still
was my main destination. After driving along a highway for a certain while, I
saw a road sign which read “Great
Salt Lake National Park ”.
-Cool! That road will lead me to the Lake !- I thought inside my mind.
I took the left turn at the stoplight and
drove down the UT SR 202 which connects with the I-80. My enthusiasm for the
idea of finally catching a glimpse of the Great Salt Lake
was killing me and I really felt like it was one of the most memorable moments
ever. I was not disappointed, at least not in the way I had imagined. This is
where my story turns a bit dark and mysterious.
-What the heck is that?
It was nothing I had ever seen before. There
were no lights for at least a 3-mile radius. It was so dark that I could barely
see the I-80 road sign, and everything around looked just as desolate as a
horror movie. I felt shivers running up and down my spine while getting closer
to this mysterious building of which I had heard stories, but that I wasn’t
expecting to encounter by chance in the middle of the Night. Yes, my dear
readers, it was the notorious Saltair.
I parked my Chevy Lumina right before the
fence that surrounded the property. I was seriously scared because there was a
car parked not too distant from me, but nobody seemed to be inside. Being a
tourist, I was super afraid at the idea of someone coming out with a shotgun
asking me to leave or even worse a police patrol checking out the area at Night
and finding me, alone in the dark, staring at this building with gleaming eyes
as if I were a lunatic just escaped from an asylum. The design of the building
was quite frightening, mainly because of the environment and the unusual
location. Yes, because if you see the same building in the centre of a big
city, then it might happen to be an eclectic construction conceived by a
brilliant architect. But there, in the middle of nowhere, with no sparks of
humanity and by the shores of the lake, it really gives you the creeps! I even
shared a status on Facebook concerning the experience: “I’ve just found the
most unusual building hidden in the dark. No lights around me, just this huge
building…”
I had spent at least 10 minutes with my engine
off carefully checking if anyone else was around me. I decided to step out of
the vehicle for a quick reconnaissance, still looking at the car nearby with
the corner of my eye. I stood there in religious silence admiring the beauty
and mystery of the Saltair, isolated in its disturbing quiet. Life seemed to
have abandoned the whole surrounding, so I felt very uncomfortable spending too
much time staring at it. I got back in the car and… and… and that’s when the
weirdest thing started.
I couldn’t describe it in words. It was like a
force, a fragment of my rational side gone bad, but I really felt like taking
the road again. Not any ordinary road, the road that drives right beside the
lake. I started the engine, set the gear and took the N Temple Frontage, this
is the name of the thin lane of asphalt I was travelling in. I was surrounded
by her majesty The Darkness, I could only see cars coming and going on the
I-80, but to be honest, all I would envision out of the windscreen was this
desolate stripe of asphalt which seemed to lead to nowhere. I was unable to
understand the reasons of my actions, I was just mesmerized by the shocking
vision I had not too many minutes before. At a certain point, while driving
into nowhere, I felt like stopping.
-What is it?
There was some sort of power controlling me. I
had to stop, so I did, but I couldn’t figure out why. I turned the car and
drove back towards the Saltair. I estimated of driving 1 mile or 2 from the
starting location, I was not very distant, when all of a sudden I saw a gate.
That power overtook again and without even conscience, I pulled the Lumina
over, moved the lever in Parking and turned the engine off.
-Now what?
I got out of the car and started staring at
the darkness which enveloped the horizon. I couldn’t see anything at all, I
only knew somewhere in front of me there was the Lake ,
but I couldn’t even understand my position. I was just there, staring at
nothing, but with this strong feeling inside that there was something more,
something unusual in progress, something that I couldn’t understand with my
rational side, but that a certain part of my subconscious was perceiving
strongly and vividly. What was it? I am uncertain about the time, but I can
assume I stood there looking at nothing for at least 5 minutes, completely
unaware of the logical reasons behind my actions. I finally came to my senses. I
got back in the car and drove away. While driving away I put some music on and
listened to a very appropriate song from the German band Helloween, a song
titled “Immortal” from the album The Dark
Ride. The atmosphere was still so weird and strange while I was passing by
the Saltair for the last time before heading straight home. What a disturbing
experience it was.
You might wonder if my story is worth to be
told. Let me tell you in advance that the majority of stories you will hear are
often made up to sound as scary as possible with fantasy elements and a lot of
weird details that add more mystery and interest. In my story, there’s my
“ordinary” experience where no supernatural events occurred during the events
themselves. It sounds like little to no sense at all, so let me explain. The scary
details have not been revealed yet.
The day following my Night-time encounter with
the Saltair I got super hungry for information about the place. I started
reading, reading and reading non stop. I was reading so much stuff in just one
day that one point my brain almost melted down. It was so intriguing, so
fascinating, so disturbingly interesting! All of my energies were spent to know
more about the place and going back there as quickly as possible. Nevertheless,
I wasn’t ready for what I actually found out. Yes, I wasn’t ready at all. Here
comes the seriously scary part of the story.
While reading the chronicles of the Great
Saltair, I ran across a blog where a photographer was explaining the exact
whereabouts of the original pavilion. I was really curious to know more about
the original, since the Saltair III was nothing more than a modified hangar
and, even with all its charm, couldn’t stimulate my fantasy like the original
one. So this photographer also posted a map of the location of the original
Saltair. Contrarily to what I had imagined at first, the original pavilion
wasn’t even close to the current structure, it was actually 2 miles away going
north. I was stunned: it was exactly the same road I had driven by the Night
before! But that’s not all; back in the 60’s, a movie was filmed using the then
abandoned Saltair’s pavilion as a location for a horror story. Things were
getting weirder and weirder.
That same afternoon I decided to visit the
location again with the favour of light, so I drove straight with the Chevy
Lumina without diverting to other highways and routes. I parked the car by the
Saltair III and started walking in the squashy sand towards the original site
that, according to the photographer’s description, was easily recognizable due
to the presence of some remains. It took me a good hour and a half to get to
the spot and when I got there I was very exhausted, especially because of the
terrible ground I had walked on. The only thing that gave me strength was the
morbid obsession for the historical site, as if I could find something of any
worth. Once there, I realized that the photographer had given me the wrong
instructions concerning the precise location. Even though they were facing each
other, his supposed entrance was actually 200 yards or so from the correct
location. I could recognize the remains of the structure and some wooden poles,
all of which were headed towards the lake. I actually stepped on the ground
where the Saltair used to be. Going back to the street, specifically the
mysterious road of the Night before, I noticed the gate where I stopped with
the car. I felt a shiver running down my spine. Once again, that disturbing
feeling was taking over me. Yes, because the gate where I stopped the car and
stared at the dark horizon without seeing anything, well, it pointed right
towards the site of the original Saltair. In other words, had I been there 60
years ago, I would have seen the large pavilion with my own eyes from the
position I was. I trembled as I came to the conclusion that the force inside
was actually pushing me to look at something tangible, but invisible: the ghost
of the building, or, in more appropriate words, the Ghost of the Saltair.
I spent the rest of the evening with chills in
my bones for how disturbing this story was becoming, but I couldn’t stop
reading and finding out more about the new obsession of my life. Every neuron
of my brain was busy in the quest for information and details concerning this
building, it was draining all my energy and I even skipped dinner because my
face was stuck in front of the computer screen.
I wanted to know more about the movie filmed
at the Saltair. Its title is Carnival of
Souls, filmed in 1962 when the pavilion had already been dismissed for 5
years. The whole movie is available for free on YouTube, so I immediately had a
chance to watch it. I shouldn’t have, considering my first hand experience, but
I couldn’t resist the temptation. It was a terrifying view! The whole movie is
creepy in itself, I suggest you watch it because it’s a prototype of modern
horror movies and this one was filmed back in the 60’s before famous titles
like Night of the Living Dead which
set the standards for modern day horror movies. Yeah, Carnival of Souls is just as creepy as it could be for its days,
but its psychological torture can still work on certain impressionable people. But
the reason why I find it so frightening is very personal.
There’s a scene where the main character,
Mary, is driving at Night with her car and she sees the Saltair from the
distance. The pavilion looks macabre and threatening, it’s like a ghostly
figure in the middle of the shore. At one point, she drives her car off the
road. Guess what road is! Yes, the N Temple
Frontage! And at what point of the road?? Right in front of the spot where I
stopped and stared at the veil of darkness that fright Night! I didn’t know
anything about this movie, I didn’t know anything about the Saltair, but that
Night I had been pushed by that unexplainable force to stop exactly in that
point and stare at the darkness! But that’s not all! In the special content of
the DVD, the director revealed that he came up with the idea for Carnival of Souls during a journey back
from California .
He was driving towards Kansas
and the sun was setting. From the distance, he saw the silhouette of the
pavilion and felt so impressed by it that he diverted a bit to catch a better
glimpse. He didn’t know what he had just seen, so he drove to a place nearby
and asked someone what that place was. Again and again, same pattern! This
whole thing shocked me so much that for a couple of Nights I couldn’t sleep. I
had the feeling that the Ghost of the Saltair was somehow calling me and I had
bad dreams and nightmares about it. One Night I was so frightened that I stayed
awake until the sun arose, I simply couldn’t close my eyes without feeling the
fear connected with all the events surrounding my discovery of the Saltair.
This in itself creates another link to the story in the movie, where the girl
can’t sleep at Night because she feels the presence of the pavilion as if it
was visible from the window. I have no words to explain the mark this story has
left in my mind!
At the moment now, I am back in Italy and well far away from Utah
and the Great Salt Lake . I don’t know if other
people can report the same experience, but if anyone has been involved in a
similar way, I doubt I will ever know about it. My story is a genuine account
of what happened to me. I have not made it up, I have not added fantasy
elements to make it sound more interesting or entertaining. I honestly have no
idea how you readers might perceive my description of the story, but I want to
tell you one thing before closing and it is: if you should ever find yourself
driving by the I-80 or the UT SR 201, take a diversion to the Great Salt Lake
and experiment by yourself. Take a very good look at the current Saltair,
either at the twilight or with complete darkness, and then drive North for
approximately 2 miles by the shore. It might happen to you as well to be haunted
by the Ghost of the Saltair.